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Thursday, April 23, 2015
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Sunday, March 22, 2015
Italy Final Day
Our journey home would not have been complete without a little drama: a backpack left at the hotel, a cell phone forgotten on the bus...not that a 2:00 am wake-up call might have anything to do with our state of mind. Students began chanting, "U-S-A" on the way to the airport, as eager as the chaperones to lay their heads on their own pillows and order anything wrapped in a tortilla. Once at the airport, the lines were long. Several tour groups were headed back to the States and were vying for the early morning departures. To make matters even more interesting, three of the KLM passengers were issued standby tickets for the Amsterdam to Houston flight.
Lorenzo and Chiara will arrive in Turin by noon on a high-speed train, so we are on our own now to solve these final issues. Souvenirs in tow and still creating dramatic memories, Purple and Gold and heading back to Galveston, USA!
Saturday, March 21, 2015
Italy Day Ten
Day Ten
Valerie and Doug have fitness apps on their phones which predict we have walked over 80 miles this week, including climbing up and down countless stairs and hills. Our top day was a 12.5 mile trek across the city of Rome! In addition to finding out things about ourselves, we are also discovering characteristics about Italy that only a visit here would reveal.
For example, when our tour guide Lorenzo graduated from middle school, his teacher bought a bottle of wine to share with the class in celebration...Students in Italian high schools attend 8 am to 1 pm Monday through Saturday for a total of 200 school days per year. (Texas has 187 school days.) Lorenzo also attended university in Germany for only 120 euros per year. How's that for out-of-state tuition! And to compare, it costs approximately 1,200 euros to take driver's education!! Only professional schools are allowed to teach the course and students must be 18. Because driving in general is considered so dangerous, most young people continue to rely on public transportation and do not start driving until they finish college in their early twenties. They do have the option of driving a 50cc moped beginning at the age of 15.
We saw lots of mopeds on the isle of Capri today. Due to rough seas, our mini-cruise around the island was exchanged for a trip to Anacapri, an exclusive village 'above' Capri. Students rode a chair lift to the very top of the highest promontory for views that made them gasp. Sheer cliffs, blue-green water, and Capri's rooftops shone in the distance. Quite a different island from our's in Galveston!
Back at the port, students bought gifts flavored with local lemons and relaxed for some lunch. Many of the girls sat while craftsmen fashioned hand-made sandals for them. The ferry came too early for us all, taking us back to the mainland where we will reunite with our bus on the way to Rome for a few hours sleep before we are off to the airport. It has truly been a "highlights" tour, giving us just a glimpse of places we could all spend much more time given the opportunity. But even for those in our group who say they might never return (the 'other seniors'), none regrets the time spent here. The memories will never be measured in mere miles.
Friday, March 20, 2015
Italy Day Nine
The weather has been fantastic the past few days and promises to continue through the remainder of our trip. It was a four hour drive this morning to Pompeii where we ate original Napoli pizza at the site where pizza was invented. Supposedly a local favorite before King Umberto and his wife visited, it became a national treasure after the queen wrote a letter of appreciation to the chef. It was delicious.
The students saw how hand-made cameos are crafted with sea shells then met our local guide for a tour of Pompeii. We saw a gladiator training dormitory, bakeries, homes, chariot-rudded streets, ancient sewage lines, and the first red light district. Students were shocked to see the plasters of humans and pets frozen in time when Vesuvius laid waste to this once bustling port. Not many of them knew much about the details of this place before we arrived. They all left with a morbid fascination of the power of nature.
We are staying in a small village next to Sorrento. Church bells are ringing, students are crowded in the lobby frantically searching for WiFi, and yours truly has found a small cafe around the corner. I'm certain the students will find me before long. There are orange groves and lemons the size of softballs hanging from every tree. Students are walking down to the Mediterranean and collecting glass from amongst the stones on the shore. It is a nice reward after carrying our luggage up several flights of stairs! Hard to believe that tomorrow's ferry to Capri will be the final highlight of this journey. The travelers, both young and old, have really bonded. Students were playing password with their phones at dinner while chaperones laughed about how much fun they are having with their roommates.
We are all grateful for the support of those who made this trip possible and will spend our final euros well...
The students saw how hand-made cameos are crafted with sea shells then met our local guide for a tour of Pompeii. We saw a gladiator training dormitory, bakeries, homes, chariot-rudded streets, ancient sewage lines, and the first red light district. Students were shocked to see the plasters of humans and pets frozen in time when Vesuvius laid waste to this once bustling port. Not many of them knew much about the details of this place before we arrived. They all left with a morbid fascination of the power of nature.
We are staying in a small village next to Sorrento. Church bells are ringing, students are crowded in the lobby frantically searching for WiFi, and yours truly has found a small cafe around the corner. I'm certain the students will find me before long. There are orange groves and lemons the size of softballs hanging from every tree. Students are walking down to the Mediterranean and collecting glass from amongst the stones on the shore. It is a nice reward after carrying our luggage up several flights of stairs! Hard to believe that tomorrow's ferry to Capri will be the final highlight of this journey. The travelers, both young and old, have really bonded. Students were playing password with their phones at dinner while chaperones laughed about how much fun they are having with their roommates.
We are all grateful for the support of those who made this trip possible and will spend our final euros well...
Day Eight
Day Eight
"Travel is only glamorous in retrospect." So said our travel guide to start the day and as we stagger in to the hotel, aching and sleepy, we are inclined to agree. There was a power outage at the catacombs site we were scheduled to visit, so we detoured to a new location, the San Sabastiano Catacombs after dropping off those not participating at Palatine Hill. The most interesting location was a Roman burial site below what is now a church with Benini's final sculpture, a bust of Jesus. (Travelers from last year's Peru trip were disappointed not to see any bones--the bodies have all been moved to a lower third level below ground for preservation and respect.) Next, we visited St. Paul's Basilica, the second largest church in Rome behind St. Peter's. Statues of Paul show him wielding a sword, a much different image than those who think of him as a proliferate prisoner. The inside of the basilica was cavernous, the alabaster pillars from Egypt breathtaking. Although we did not get to see the Pope, we did see his mosaic lit in the ceiling along with mosaics representing all 260+ pontiffs since Peter.
Our drop off point was the top of the Spanish Steps, filled with people at noon eating and crowd-watching. Students headed to Trevi Fountain to find it under construction, a disappointing amble across a man-made walkway with a view of haz-mat-clad restoration workings sufficing for a flowing fountain. On the way to the Pantheon a kind man let the students take pictures with his two pet Parakeets...for a euro! Just a lesson that "free time" in Rome doesn't mean it won't cost you anything! Inside the Pantheon (so sorry those of you who didn't keep up with Coach Neighbors and didn't get to see inside) was the tomb of Victor Emmanuel, the first king of united Italy and Queen Margarita, the namesake of Italy's most common pizza. The interior was being prepared for a liturgy and was another 'wow' in a long line of indescribable moments. It is encouraging to see students stunned by the architectural and artistic beauty of a place.
Piazza Novano was nearby, a haven for artists where many students bought a memento of Rome. More traditional shops on the Via dei Corso and dei Conditti also earned some tourist dollars from the great state of Texas. Our day would not have been complete without a student getting 'lost' in the crowd, this time distracted by conversation with an Italian boy! Just like the parable of the lost sheep, we left the 99 (literally!) and searched until we found the one lost lamb. There is a sense of relief now that we are all safely back at the hotel. Our nightly routine is groups of students crowded in the lobby connected to WiFi on their phones while those who didn't get online fast enough walk across to McDonald's to do the same. Adults are showering, putting in their earplugs, and falling asleep even before I finish typing. Because I refuse to sprint off the bus and into the lobby to fight for WiFi access, I, too, will have to wait until tomorrow sometime before this message posts. No worries. It's Rome. It's glamorous, remember?
Thursday, March 19, 2015
Day Seven Italy
Day seven
Today was one long "wow" after another. It started at the Colosseum. (Or did it start with Starbucks quality coffee being served at the continental breakfast offered by the hotel?!) Our guide was very Latin and very passionate about the accomplishments of the ancient Romans on which we stood. There were tales of gladiators and beasts and naval battles, of emperors and senators and team owners or 'patrons.' The organization of the games was as impressive as the architectural world wonder in which we walked. Our exit took us through the Forum, the political and economic heart of the Roman Empire. We paid homage at Caesar's burial site and saw a Roman temple converted to a church. The size and grandeur stunned some of the students who could only imagine the way this district must have reigned over its inhabitants 2000 years ago.
Overlooking the 'playground,' or Colosseum floor where the battles were waged, the seniors pulled out the Ball High flag and snapped a photo. That purple and gold flag has traveled with us around the world and back ten times and shown up in the yearbook every year since 2006. The entire Ball High student and staff group squeezed into one frame in front of the 'wedding cake' government monument nearby, and then our guides had to back up into the street in order to photograph the entire squad of travelers in one great final picture.
Lunch was only scheduled for one hour, but not even a street-side cafe in Italy is interested in rushing the dining experience. Once underway, we crossed an international boundary and entered the Vatican. A four-story escalator ride toward a sun-drenched paned ceiling set the stage for what would be a mind-boggling two hours. (All of the students were wearing Whisper headsets and listened to the guide as we shuffled through. We were told it was not very crowded! When they saw our confusion, because everyone could barely move without bumping into a foreigner, they explained that 6 million visitors go through the Vatican every year. 35,000 on a busy day, 5,000 on the least of days. Today they estimated 15,000.) Every small step put us into a 360-degree realm of wonder and amazement: frescoes, mosaics, sculptures, tapestries, maps, tiled floors, gold-leaf ceilings, paintings...and then the Sistine Chapel. Too much to take in when only allowed to spend ten minutes inside. The lower third is painted with frescoes imitating curtains. The second third has panels of paintings by Italian masters depicting the life of Noah and Jesus. Michaelangelo's ceiling incorporates the ancestors of those two figures because his part of the project was the last to be completed. It was more meaningful because the guide spent some time explaining key aspects of the symbolism. Michaelangelo painted the ceiling when he was 63. He did the far wall ("Last Judgement") when he was in his 80s. It was the last work of his brush before he died.
Then, without delay, we crossed into St. Peter's Basilica, the center of the Roman Catholic Church. Seeing the Pieta, sarcophagus of Pope John Paul II, and the magnificence of the interior brought some to tears. There was a statue of St. Peter where many passed, touching his feet to pay their respects. Two mosaics there, copies of Raphael's works, were masterpieces.
As we exited, we saw the changing of the Swiss Guard who patrol the Vatican along with the gendarme. Travelers were able to purchase blessed items as a token of our experience or as a way to pass the significance on to a loved one.
We transversed an ornate bridge on the Tiber River while strolling back to the busses. It was a powerful day and a lot to take in. Exhausted again at the end of a long day, our tour guide announced that tomorrow we would be sleeping in an hour later before heading to the Catacombs. Amen!
Tuesday, March 17, 2015
Italy Day Six
Day Six
We said Ciao to Florence and drove straight through to Assisi (3 hours) for a Furrs-cafeteria style lunch...students were glued to the Italian soap opera playing on a big screen TV...except for the one student who had fallen asleep with someone else's gum 'glued' to her hair. (Yes, that really happened, and it is recorded here so she can never deny it.) The modern city of Assisi sits at the base of a mountain upon which the Medieval city rests. Not one but two basilicas sit atop one another in tribute to St. Francis, founder of the Franciscan order. St. Catherine, his friend and contemporary, founded the Poor Claire order and there is a church for her as well within the walled maze of stone-laden streets. A few hearty souls clamored to the fortress at the very top, passing women selling fresh truffles harvested from the hillsides in Umbria, the region we are now in. The remainder found a pastry, did some shopping for religious relics, and enjoyed strolling narrow avenues transporting us back in time. We toured the basilicas and saw Giotto's frescoes dating back to the late 1200s. It was a quiet place and a needed respite. Another three hour bus ride took us into Rome. (We watched the original episodes of Mr. Bean for entertainment.) Here, traffic is bustling and students are once again adjusting to more European style accommodations. Many of them are at this moment at a McDonald's behind the hotel not to eat but to access faster WiFi!
Preparations are being made for a monumental day tomorrow. No backpacks-students must carry passports-strict dress code--we will have a local guide and tour of the Colosseum, Forum, Parthenon, and Vatican. As an old man who must now retire would say, "Arrivederci."
(Also, we will try to repost pics from yesterday...)
Monday, March 16, 2015
Italy Day Five
Day 5
Students met countless other teens at the Star Disco last night...from Spain, Australia, and of course Italy. Listening to them communicate was interesting. One young man from Florence told one of our students, "No one says 'Arrivederci'...only the old men who smoke!" We all made it back to the hotel just after midnight, but not before a little karaoke action. Lorenzo, our tour guide, noticed how quiet everyone was at breakfast...😴
A steady drizzle greeted us this morning as we loaded the busses for Pisa. Our tour there surprised the travelers with a wealth of information and beautiful architecture. Who knew Pisa was the only round bell tower (most are square) and that its baptistry is also round (versus the more traditional octogonal). Also, the church and bell tower have Moorish influence, another rarity for a Catholic cathedral. We heard a vocal demonstration in the baptistry and then students took turns taking iconic pictures for their Facebook pages. The street vendors continue to keep a close eye on our group. Today, they nicknamed individuals, calling out to them trying to entice their business. You will have to guess who "Lady Gaga," "Coach Mandy," and "Playboy" are!
Next, our group was treated by EF with a visit to San Gimignano. Not originally on the itinerary, it quickly became one of our favorite stops. Inside the medieval walls of the city were warm cafes, unique craft shops, spice factories, and "the best gelato in the world." Needless to say, Mr. Neighbors had his fill of pistachio gelato! (Many of the students ordered gelato from two different shops...so they could compare the taste and determine which is really the best in the world.)
Not even a building rain could dampen our enthusiasm as we departed for dinner in Florence. It was time to buy leather purses, visit the hospital (don't worry--it's NOT your child!) and eat our best meal so far this week. A small group even managed to climb the 414 steps to the top of the Duomo! Tired, wet, and ready for a flat bed and a flat pillow--it has been a terrific day in Italy...
Sunday, March 15, 2015
Itay Day Four
How many monkeys were in the bed? We aren't certain but we do know that there were one too many bananas in the bed and it ended as badly as the children's story last night when the front desk had to help change out some sheets! Fortunately most but not all jet lag is behind us and those who were still needing to catch up on sleep had a three hour bus ride this morning to rest. Those who weren't sleeping saw us cross the Appeninnes and picked up some snacks at the Autogrille.
The rain held off until just as we finished the walking tour of the Florence city center...Ponte Vecchio and the shops overhanging the Arne, a duomo of green, pink, and white marble, and the Santa Croche cathedral were highlights. At a local leather shop students were taught how to distinguish real from fake leather and saw how molds are created to form leather-bound boxes and other shapely covers. Afterwards, maps were passed out and students set out to grab snacks and do some shopping. Street vendors were pretty aggressive today and some of the travelers succumbed to buying a scarf or a work of art...but don't tell anyone because we've heard purchasing street art is somehow illegal (!) Those who ventured to the Galleria del' Accademia saw the original David sculpted by Michaelangelo. A replica which took 20-years to construct now stands in the square so that visitors can see the context which the artist had in mind as he formed his masterpiece.
Tonight after dinner we are escorting the kids to the famed Florence discoteque...due to this late-night excursion, there will be no other blog update until tomorrow. Rock on!
Saturday, March 14, 2015
Italy Day Three
Day 3 was all about Venice. Seniors had the early breakfast at 6:30 am but were surprised by two automatic coffee dispensers, an array of pastries, cereal, cold cuts, yogurt, fresh fruit, and several unique juice blends. No one left the hotel hungry!
Our first stop was to a glass-blowing demonstration where a Murano-glass master showed the students how to create a pitcher and a horse. Because there were small flaws in both designs, the glass was immediately thrown back into recycling. Only after four inspections does a piece of finished glass go into the artwork phase for any design to be authenticated. Only because I promised the students not to reveal any secrets, I can not post any pictures at this time...but there are several relatives who have some amazing presents awaiting them when we arrive back in Texas next weekend!
A short water-taxi ride away was the island of Venice and a walking tour led by a local guide. Students wore "Whisper sets" which allow the guide to talk quietly into a microphone and all the travelers have a receiver so they can hear clearly even if they are not standing directly beside the guide. (Warning: we discovered "Whisper" is a misnomer.) Once that concluded, students had four hours to each lunch, tour the Doge's Palace, and eat lunch. Almost everyone got lost!! It is truly part of the Venice experience...The palace and prison were unforgettable: Extremely ornate, breathtaking ceilings, and prison cells more properly termed dungeons. Everyone who toured the palace also crossed the Bridge of Sighs, a prisoner's final walk before disappearing into the penitentiary below.
Purchases included art work, Carnival masks, magnets, and lots and lots of sunglasses! Students are slowly starting to loosen up and participate in some goofy video shots that will one day end up in a crazy highlight video. Shake it up, Ball High!
Our first stop was to a glass-blowing demonstration where a Murano-glass master showed the students how to create a pitcher and a horse. Because there were small flaws in both designs, the glass was immediately thrown back into recycling. Only after four inspections does a piece of finished glass go into the artwork phase for any design to be authenticated. Only because I promised the students not to reveal any secrets, I can not post any pictures at this time...but there are several relatives who have some amazing presents awaiting them when we arrive back in Texas next weekend!
A short water-taxi ride away was the island of Venice and a walking tour led by a local guide. Students wore "Whisper sets" which allow the guide to talk quietly into a microphone and all the travelers have a receiver so they can hear clearly even if they are not standing directly beside the guide. (Warning: we discovered "Whisper" is a misnomer.) Once that concluded, students had four hours to each lunch, tour the Doge's Palace, and eat lunch. Almost everyone got lost!! It is truly part of the Venice experience...The palace and prison were unforgettable: Extremely ornate, breathtaking ceilings, and prison cells more properly termed dungeons. Everyone who toured the palace also crossed the Bridge of Sighs, a prisoner's final walk before disappearing into the penitentiary below.
Purchases included art work, Carnival masks, magnets, and lots and lots of sunglasses! Students are slowly starting to loosen up and participate in some goofy video shots that will one day end up in a crazy highlight video. Shake it up, Ball High!
Friday, March 13, 2015
Italy Day Two
Our group is not difficult to spot--there are several EF backpacks being sported--but when we walk as a crowd through a terminal, for example, it helps to have tall leaders whom everyone can clearly see. (Thank you Jacob and Anthony.) It's entertaining to see 17- and 18- year olds reduced to excited children so easily: How many of us can we squeeze into one room? How does this vending machine work? Will it take US coins? (No!) What are we doing when we get there? When is lunch? What do I do if I lost my boarding pass? (Not a hypothetical question) What is the age limit to get a tattoo in Italy? Why does it cost a euro to go to the bathroom?
Surrounding St. Mark's Square in Venice are high-priced, expensive stores serving a vast array of wealthy tourists from around the world. There is also an extensive cohort of North African salesmen offering similar goods to those walking the cobblestone streets. Outside the Gucci stores are lines of men selling purses. In the past, they sold high-powered laser pointers, key chains, hair braids, and anything else a tourist with money in their pocket might be lured to purchase. A traveler needs souvenirs, right? So what does it say about our society that the number one item being hocked by street vendors in Europe today is a selfie stick??!
The exchange rate for euros was the most favorable in twelve years according to the Wall Street Journal. Students were purchasing .96 euros for a dollar at the airport. That's a few more cups of chocolate calda before the week is through!
The tour guides find it amusing that we are labeling one bus "purple" and the other "gold." Even more hilarious is that one of our tour busses is actually purple! (Actually, students are arguing whether it is lavender or magenta...either way, it was the Gold bus for today!) That will be rectified starting tomorrow morning. Venice was chilly today and promises to be cool again tomorrow. You will see Italia hoodies and jackets in pictures going forward! The light was good for pictures and students perused the shops, but a half day to shop and explore tomorrow will be the prime time to purchase our first round of souvenirs. For tonight's dinner, students had pasta with marinara sauce. Many of them thought that was the extent of the entire meal, not realizing that in Italy the antipasti is the appetizer. We also had turkey, vegetables, and a dessert. For three of our students, getting to dinner meant practicing orienteering. Mr. Neighbors went to the hotel to lead them to dinner but the concierge had already set them out the door with a map! Fortunately, they found it even before Mr. Neighbors made it back across the square, but they discovered some new paths on the scenic route to their destination. (It's okay--we still believe in you Camden and Martin!)
Surrounding St. Mark's Square in Venice are high-priced, expensive stores serving a vast array of wealthy tourists from around the world. There is also an extensive cohort of North African salesmen offering similar goods to those walking the cobblestone streets. Outside the Gucci stores are lines of men selling purses. In the past, they sold high-powered laser pointers, key chains, hair braids, and anything else a tourist with money in their pocket might be lured to purchase. A traveler needs souvenirs, right? So what does it say about our society that the number one item being hocked by street vendors in Europe today is a selfie stick??!
The exchange rate for euros was the most favorable in twelve years according to the Wall Street Journal. Students were purchasing .96 euros for a dollar at the airport. That's a few more cups of chocolate calda before the week is through!
The tour guides find it amusing that we are labeling one bus "purple" and the other "gold." Even more hilarious is that one of our tour busses is actually purple! (Actually, students are arguing whether it is lavender or magenta...either way, it was the Gold bus for today!) That will be rectified starting tomorrow morning. Venice was chilly today and promises to be cool again tomorrow. You will see Italia hoodies and jackets in pictures going forward! The light was good for pictures and students perused the shops, but a half day to shop and explore tomorrow will be the prime time to purchase our first round of souvenirs. For tonight's dinner, students had pasta with marinara sauce. Many of them thought that was the extent of the entire meal, not realizing that in Italy the antipasti is the appetizer. We also had turkey, vegetables, and a dessert. For three of our students, getting to dinner meant practicing orienteering. Mr. Neighbors went to the hotel to lead them to dinner but the concierge had already set them out the door with a map! Fortunately, they found it even before Mr. Neighbors made it back across the square, but they discovered some new paths on the scenic route to their destination. (It's okay--we still believe in you Camden and Martin!)
Italy Day One
Once everyone had the correct boarding passes, made it through enhanced security, and found the gate, we were ready to fly. But travelers know the trip really began the night before--unable to sleep due to excitement...or because you stayed up late packing!
Several students have never flown before and many never beyond Texas. I had to warn them that this was a dangerous way to earn their wings. Not because of the long transAtlantic crossing, but because of the in-flight entertainment, multiple meals and snacks, attentive service, warm blankets, and free pillows. It's like eating ice cream for the first time and being fed Blue Bell Homemade Vanilla...once spoiled you can hardly be fed anything else and not feel slighted in some Machiavellian way. You will spend the rest of your life forgoing any less-worthy calories...so families beware. We have yet to set foot in Italy and some of them have already been infected with a joy of travel that may never again be fully quenched without an 8-hour flight to some exotic destination.
Several students have never flown before and many never beyond Texas. I had to warn them that this was a dangerous way to earn their wings. Not because of the long transAtlantic crossing, but because of the in-flight entertainment, multiple meals and snacks, attentive service, warm blankets, and free pillows. It's like eating ice cream for the first time and being fed Blue Bell Homemade Vanilla...once spoiled you can hardly be fed anything else and not feel slighted in some Machiavellian way. You will spend the rest of your life forgoing any less-worthy calories...so families beware. We have yet to set foot in Italy and some of them have already been infected with a joy of travel that may never again be fully quenched without an 8-hour flight to some exotic destination.
Sunday, February 22, 2015
Peru Day Eight
Breakfast was on the sixth floor of the hotel this morning. Few made it by 8 am! Bags had to be packed and passports collected before our walking tour of Cuzco began.
We walked past Santo Domingo and the local citizens enjoying a Saturday on the wide green lawn surrounding an ancient fortress. Was every walk uphill?! We saw Incan foundations including the famous 12-edged stone. The central square was again our meeting point. It was swarming with aggressive street vendors including a team of shoe-shine boys. Some walked further to the farmer's market while others visited the chocolate museum. After lunch overlooking downtown...or after trying McDonald's Peru, Washington took us through the main cathedral. It was the first one built by the Spaniard's in South America and is larger than Lima's. There were many examples of colonialism on display--Mary painted with a body in the shape of a mountain, a Guinea pig being served at the last supper, and a crucifix made of corn. The Spaniards purposefully incorporated local ideas into carvings and paintings to help evangelize the local population who were illiterate in Spanish and Latin. It was an impressive church--it's size rivals great cathedrals in Europe. The primary altar, for example, was made using 2500 pounds of silver and a side chapel had an edifice plated with 22-carat gold. Upon exiting the tour several students (Kevin and George) hurriedly spent their final soles.
Next began the arduous journey home: bus transfer from hotel to Cuzco airport-fly to Lima-grab luggage and haul to bus for dinner-bus back to Lima airport-international flight home departing at midnight and arriving in Houston at 6:30 am.
We walked past Santo Domingo and the local citizens enjoying a Saturday on the wide green lawn surrounding an ancient fortress. Was every walk uphill?! We saw Incan foundations including the famous 12-edged stone. The central square was again our meeting point. It was swarming with aggressive street vendors including a team of shoe-shine boys. Some walked further to the farmer's market while others visited the chocolate museum. After lunch overlooking downtown...or after trying McDonald's Peru, Washington took us through the main cathedral. It was the first one built by the Spaniard's in South America and is larger than Lima's. There were many examples of colonialism on display--Mary painted with a body in the shape of a mountain, a Guinea pig being served at the last supper, and a crucifix made of corn. The Spaniards purposefully incorporated local ideas into carvings and paintings to help evangelize the local population who were illiterate in Spanish and Latin. It was an impressive church--it's size rivals great cathedrals in Europe. The primary altar, for example, was made using 2500 pounds of silver and a side chapel had an edifice plated with 22-carat gold. Upon exiting the tour several students (Kevin and George) hurriedly spent their final soles.
Next began the arduous journey home: bus transfer from hotel to Cuzco airport-fly to Lima-grab luggage and haul to bus for dinner-bus back to Lima airport-international flight home departing at midnight and arriving in Houston at 6:30 am.
Peru Day Seven
It will be impossible to describe in words all that transpired today. We left our cottage "Shangri La" to a soft rain which would follow us throughout the morning. At Umasbamba Javier and Gary directed us to the house we would be working on and then showed us another home and the completed projects there from a prior group. The second home had a garden built inside a courtyard and another structure built to house a guinea farm. The local delicacy would be grown and sold to restaurants in Cuzco. It was necessary for EF that the family assistance include some income-generating project. In this way, the family had to create a way to grow their income and build the community. Our project would include painting, constructing a garden, and plastering an exterior wall designed to become a guest quarters for tourists.
First, however, we marched through the rain to the primary school where the children in grades 1-6 were just starting recess. They sang for us and danced with us before we shared hot chocolate and bread in one of the classrooms. The teachers, who are employed by the government, live in Cuzco and Chinchara and commute to the school each day. The hours run from 8:15 to 1:15 daily and the school year runs from March till December 20. (Students "summer break" includes Christmas.) We presented the principal with Ball High lanyards and could only stay a short while due to government regulations. EF has helped the children who want to pursue 'high school' (our secondary) in Chinchara which is six miles away by providing bicycles to students who pass the sixth grade and enroll in the next level.
Back at our project home, we divided into three teams and began working. The paint was clay-based and the family had mixed in local soil to create the desired color. One group of students grabbed rollers and began spreading the runny solution onto the adobe walls. A second team grabbed muddy plaster and literally threw it by handfuls onto bricked walls. The plaster was them smoothed by the men of the family who are builders by trade. A third team set to work measuring and cutting wood for a garden fence. Fence posts had to be selected and cut from a pile of limbs and then post holes were dug with crude tools in the rocky soil. When we broke for lunch at noon, the painting was mostly done and the plastering was finished. We ate more quinoa soup and had a vegetable medley coated with a mushroom-based sauce in the community center where the mamacitas regularly meet. Afterwards, seven students chose to stay on the bus. The cumulative effects of altitude, hiking, manual labor, some sunburn, and a strange diet had taken its toll. The rest of the group finished painting then helped with the garden project which was the most complex. The plastering team broke apart mud bricks to create the foundation for future plaster made of mud and straw. They looked like a prison work crew slinging pick axes!
The garden came together at last as students took turns hammering and sawing. Everyone helped turn the soil and add potting mix. EF had purchased flowers for the matron of the house and she directed the students as they each took a turn helping plant them in rows. She almost cried as she delivered her thanks to us in Quechua, and the students responded with equal emotion when they gave her a congratulatory hug to conclude our time together.
The day had been a huge success. Peru is now more than just llamas and Machu Picchu to these students...it is a nation of gracious people who demonstrate 'reciprocity' as a way of life. The village of Umasbamba will hold a significant place in our memories.
With the red clay soil of the village baked to or clothes, shoes, and faces we drove back to Cuzco for our final night in Peru. Dinner was at a restaurant overlooking the main square. The night lights and ambiance of street vendors facing the majestic cathedral took everyone's breath away. We are scheduled to return in the morning for a walking tour before starting our long journey home to Texas. The students miss their families, but they will also miss Peru.
First, however, we marched through the rain to the primary school where the children in grades 1-6 were just starting recess. They sang for us and danced with us before we shared hot chocolate and bread in one of the classrooms. The teachers, who are employed by the government, live in Cuzco and Chinchara and commute to the school each day. The hours run from 8:15 to 1:15 daily and the school year runs from March till December 20. (Students "summer break" includes Christmas.) We presented the principal with Ball High lanyards and could only stay a short while due to government regulations. EF has helped the children who want to pursue 'high school' (our secondary) in Chinchara which is six miles away by providing bicycles to students who pass the sixth grade and enroll in the next level.
Back at our project home, we divided into three teams and began working. The paint was clay-based and the family had mixed in local soil to create the desired color. One group of students grabbed rollers and began spreading the runny solution onto the adobe walls. A second team grabbed muddy plaster and literally threw it by handfuls onto bricked walls. The plaster was them smoothed by the men of the family who are builders by trade. A third team set to work measuring and cutting wood for a garden fence. Fence posts had to be selected and cut from a pile of limbs and then post holes were dug with crude tools in the rocky soil. When we broke for lunch at noon, the painting was mostly done and the plastering was finished. We ate more quinoa soup and had a vegetable medley coated with a mushroom-based sauce in the community center where the mamacitas regularly meet. Afterwards, seven students chose to stay on the bus. The cumulative effects of altitude, hiking, manual labor, some sunburn, and a strange diet had taken its toll. The rest of the group finished painting then helped with the garden project which was the most complex. The plastering team broke apart mud bricks to create the foundation for future plaster made of mud and straw. They looked like a prison work crew slinging pick axes!
The garden came together at last as students took turns hammering and sawing. Everyone helped turn the soil and add potting mix. EF had purchased flowers for the matron of the house and she directed the students as they each took a turn helping plant them in rows. She almost cried as she delivered her thanks to us in Quechua, and the students responded with equal emotion when they gave her a congratulatory hug to conclude our time together.
The day had been a huge success. Peru is now more than just llamas and Machu Picchu to these students...it is a nation of gracious people who demonstrate 'reciprocity' as a way of life. The village of Umasbamba will hold a significant place in our memories.
With the red clay soil of the village baked to or clothes, shoes, and faces we drove back to Cuzco for our final night in Peru. Dinner was at a restaurant overlooking the main square. The night lights and ambiance of street vendors facing the majestic cathedral took everyone's breath away. We are scheduled to return in the morning for a walking tour before starting our long journey home to Texas. The students miss their families, but they will also miss Peru.
Peru Day Six
The students prepared for today by playing reverse hide-and-seek last night amidst the maze of cottages. Washington, our guide, showed off his pool skills and the rest enjoyed reliable wifi in the lobby. Cell phones and camaras were left behind so the travelers could immerse themselves in the community and projects without seeming garish. We arrived in Umasbamba to a musical and lei welcome by members of the community. The "mamacitas" held our hands and danced with us on our way to the courtyard outside the village church. A drummer and flutist followed, serenading us with traditional rural melodies throughout our stay. After being further welcomed by our local guide Javier, we strapped Peruvian packs tour our backs and hauled tools to a potato field owned by Frida. We joined the women in a ceremony to bless the land and our work while two bulls plowed the ground in preparation for the harvest. For the next hour we dug and harvested potatoes using curved, hand-held hoes still utilized by the people today. The second hour we moved to another field 400 meters closer to the lake. It was much more deeply furrowed and produced a better crop. The potatoes were collected onto sheets of wool then dumped manually into rice bags. Each bag held approximately 100 lbs of potatoes each. They were taken back to the village on the backs of mules. It was back-breaking work and a few students are feeling further drained from the sun. For lunch, we dined in the fields on potatoes, onion salad, cheese, and quinoa. The mint tea to top it off was excellent!
Afterwards, we were shown how local plants (and insects!) are used to create the dyes for their textiles. They sheared a sheep with a knife and taught us how to spin and weave. Some caught on faster than others! It was a powerful day and the students were moved--their favorite day on the trip by far. Tomorrow we return to Umasbamba to meet the school children and to work on community home projects.
Afterwards, we were shown how local plants (and insects!) are used to create the dyes for their textiles. They sheared a sheep with a knife and taught us how to spin and weave. Some caught on faster than others! It was a powerful day and the students were moved--their favorite day on the trip by far. Tomorrow we return to Umasbamba to meet the school children and to work on community home projects.
Peru Day Five
Our busiest day yet began with a train ride to Ollaybambu minus George and Anthony's luggage...a roommate quarrel was avoided when our tour guide, Washington, called the hotel so they could send it on to us in a couple of days. The village of Ollaybamba sits below an ancient Incan fortress. 300 steps to the top according to Rachel. It was another majestic reminder of the Incas' engineering marvel and coopting of existing cultural groups. For lunch, many students had beef on a stick or wood-fired pizza in the main square. Coach King tried guinea pig even though we had just seen the cute animals inside the restoration of a historical home. Next, though not on the itinerary, we stopped at a 1500-year-old evaporative salt mine. Yet another arduous hike! Eighteen of the group made it to the spring-fed source and found a few treasures after navigating some extremely steep and narrow terrain. But wait-we weren't finished yet! Seminario, a famous Peruvian "contemporary traditional artist" demonstrated ancient and modern ceramic techniques and addressed the students about a museum-commission piece he was currently working on. Had to buy more water before heading back to the cottage hotel for dinner...tomorrow we will be digging for potatoes with historical implements and learning the weaving techniques of the Incas! Off to a well-deserved bed...
Peru Day Four
Breakfast consisted of fruit, bread, and fresh eggs. There is one rocky, winding road from Urubamba to Ollatayamba, site of the train station and launching point for Machu Picchu. One tip for train travel in the Andes: there is one lavatory per cabin, located in the rear. By lavatory the Peruvians mean a large hole. You may only use the lavatory while the train is in motion because the waste products are dumped directly onto the tracks beneath. Think of it as a 65-mph port-a-potty...
The train station was full of international passengers as we arrived at the base of Machu Picchu. The city atop the mountain was invisible to us while our bus navigated hairpin turns to the top. Once there, we began a two-hour guided tour of the ruins. Many students expressed, "This is the most amazing thing I have ever seen." The sun was blazing making for beautiful pictures of Machu Picchu and the surrounding mountains.
After a break for lunch (Nutella sandwiches melt in backpacks by the way) we took a group picture and then hiked to the Sun Gate. This is the entrance to Machu Picchu from the Inca Trail and the first view of the city for travelers on foot from Cuzco, the Incan capital. It began raining creating a slippery slope on the rocky descent, but that didn't phase the Tors from scrambling down in time for more exploration including lots of "llama selfies." (Check Facebook for the results!) Our hotel tonight is in Aguascalientes, "Hot Springs" that welcome trekkers who have finished the Inca Trail. Because the hikers have usually not bathed in four days, the springs-fed baths are known for an appearance resembling Galveston's muddy Gulf waters. It is a tourist haven, and groups of students will spend until curfew perusing the countless shops and markets lining the narrow streets.
The train station was full of international passengers as we arrived at the base of Machu Picchu. The city atop the mountain was invisible to us while our bus navigated hairpin turns to the top. Once there, we began a two-hour guided tour of the ruins. Many students expressed, "This is the most amazing thing I have ever seen." The sun was blazing making for beautiful pictures of Machu Picchu and the surrounding mountains.
After a break for lunch (Nutella sandwiches melt in backpacks by the way) we took a group picture and then hiked to the Sun Gate. This is the entrance to Machu Picchu from the Inca Trail and the first view of the city for travelers on foot from Cuzco, the Incan capital. It began raining creating a slippery slope on the rocky descent, but that didn't phase the Tors from scrambling down in time for more exploration including lots of "llama selfies." (Check Facebook for the results!) Our hotel tonight is in Aguascalientes, "Hot Springs" that welcome trekkers who have finished the Inca Trail. Because the hikers have usually not bathed in four days, the springs-fed baths are known for an appearance resembling Galveston's muddy Gulf waters. It is a tourist haven, and groups of students will spend until curfew perusing the countless shops and markets lining the narrow streets.
Peru Day Three
Wake-up call rang loud and clear at 4:30 am...there was little traffic on the way to the airport. Anthony feels fortunate to be in Cuzco since it required two boarding passes to get him in the air. The weather greeting us here is spectacular making for even better pictures. there was one long runway in the valley and the descent was quick and picturesque. our first stop was the religious fortress of Saqsaywaman. this was our first taste of exercise at 9,000+ feet! One stone weighed over 50 tons in the construction. After snapping photos of llamas and alpacas the students enjoyed a 5-course lunch at a festaurant overlooking Cuzco. a few of them bought CDs from a band whose leading member played the panpipes...they also enjoyed Chicha morada, a Purple corn drink made since ancient times. It was frothy but smooth.
The students were shown the differences between authentic and imitation alpaca wool and a couple bought some nice gifts for their parents...(can't reveal who at the moment.) The rest are saving their money for the Pisac Market which is where we are driving to now, passing Incan terraces which have been farmed for hundreds of years.
Urubamba is our staging point in the Sacred Valley. We leave on a train for Machu Picchu at 6:30 tomorrow morning and will be staying at a hostel tomorrow night. Our residence in Urubamba is quaint--individual cottages nestled in a garden compound near the edge of the city. The students are making Nutella and peanut butter sandwiches for the hike tomorrow, stocking up on 2.5L bottles of water and snacks for the long day and steep hike ahead. Only two have experienced altitude sickness...as soon as Olivia threw up she felt instantly better. Our tour guide brought an oxygen tank to the hotel but no one has felt badly enough to take him up on it. We may change our minds tomorrow after "the hike of 4,000 steps!"
The students were shown the differences between authentic and imitation alpaca wool and a couple bought some nice gifts for their parents...(can't reveal who at the moment.) The rest are saving their money for the Pisac Market which is where we are driving to now, passing Incan terraces which have been farmed for hundreds of years.
Urubamba is our staging point in the Sacred Valley. We leave on a train for Machu Picchu at 6:30 tomorrow morning and will be staying at a hostel tomorrow night. Our residence in Urubamba is quaint--individual cottages nestled in a garden compound near the edge of the city. The students are making Nutella and peanut butter sandwiches for the hike tomorrow, stocking up on 2.5L bottles of water and snacks for the long day and steep hike ahead. Only two have experienced altitude sickness...as soon as Olivia threw up she felt instantly better. Our tour guide brought an oxygen tank to the hotel but no one has felt badly enough to take him up on it. We may change our minds tomorrow after "the hike of 4,000 steps!"
Peru 2014 Day One & Two
Everyone arrived safely and no one lost any luggage despite an hour wait at baggage claim before Hannah Pillar's pink suitcase arrived. We made it to the hotel around 1:30 am. Tina Mathers was delayed from Dallas and didn't make it in until 4...her husband valiantly stayed behind and brought her to us in a taxi. We are now up, buying water "sin gas," and ready to begin our first tour!
The Museo Larco grounds were impressive and the museum informative. We also visited a convent and the catacombs beneath. This afternoon we stepped foot in the Pacific Ocean while many surfed the aggressive waves and sunbathed on the rocky beach. Lots of Peruvian boys are volunteering to take pictures of our group...hmmm. Our flight for Cuzco departs 7:15 am so early to bed tonight...(yeah, right!)
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