Monday, March 23, 2015

Sunday, March 22, 2015

Italy Final Day


Our journey home would not have been complete without a little drama: a backpack left at the hotel, a cell phone forgotten on the bus...not that a 2:00 am wake-up call might have anything to do with our state of mind. Students began chanting, "U-S-A" on the way to the airport, as eager as the chaperones to lay their heads on their own pillows and order anything wrapped in a tortilla. Once at the airport, the lines were long. Several tour groups were headed back to the States and were vying for the early morning departures. To make matters even more interesting, three of the KLM passengers were issued standby tickets for the Amsterdam to Houston flight.
Lorenzo and Chiara will arrive in Turin by noon on a high-speed train, so we are on our own now to solve these final issues. Souvenirs in tow and still creating dramatic memories, Purple and Gold and heading back to Galveston, USA!

Saturday, March 21, 2015

Italy Day Ten

Day Ten

Valerie and Doug have fitness apps on their phones which predict we have walked over 80 miles this week, including climbing up and down countless stairs and hills. Our top day was a 12.5 mile trek across the city of Rome! In addition to finding out things about ourselves, we are also discovering characteristics about Italy that only a visit here would reveal.
For example, when our tour guide Lorenzo graduated from middle school, his teacher bought a bottle of wine to share with the class in celebration...Students in Italian high schools attend 8 am to 1 pm Monday through Saturday for a total of 200 school days per year. (Texas has 187 school days.) Lorenzo also attended university in Germany for only 120 euros per year. How's that for out-of-state tuition! And to compare, it costs approximately 1,200 euros to take driver's education!! Only professional schools are allowed to teach the course and students must be 18. Because driving in general is considered so dangerous, most young people continue to rely on public transportation and do not start driving until they finish college in their early twenties. They do have the option of driving a 50cc moped beginning at the age of 15.
We saw lots of mopeds on the isle of Capri today. Due to rough seas, our mini-cruise around the island was exchanged for a trip to Anacapri, an exclusive village 'above' Capri. Students rode a chair lift to the very top of the highest promontory for views that made them gasp. Sheer cliffs, blue-green water, and Capri's rooftops shone in the distance. Quite a different island from our's in Galveston!
Back at the port, students bought gifts flavored with local lemons and relaxed for some lunch. Many of the girls sat while craftsmen fashioned hand-made sandals for them. The ferry came too early for us all, taking us back to the mainland where we will reunite with our bus on the way to Rome for a few hours sleep before we are off to the airport. It has truly been a "highlights" tour, giving us just a glimpse of places we could all spend much more time given the opportunity. But even for those in our group who say they might never return (the 'other seniors'), none regrets the time spent here. The memories will never be measured in mere miles.

Friday, March 20, 2015

Italy Day Nine

The weather has been fantastic the past few days and promises to continue through the remainder of our trip. It was a four hour drive this morning to Pompeii where we ate original Napoli pizza at the site where pizza was invented. Supposedly a local favorite before King Umberto and his wife visited, it became a national treasure after the queen wrote a letter of appreciation to the chef. It was delicious.
The students saw how hand-made cameos are crafted with sea shells then met our local guide for a tour of Pompeii. We saw a gladiator training dormitory, bakeries, homes, chariot-rudded streets, ancient sewage lines, and the first red light district. Students were shocked to see the plasters of humans and pets frozen in time when Vesuvius laid waste to this once bustling port. Not many of them knew much about the details of this place before we arrived. They all left with a morbid fascination of the power of nature.
We are staying in a small village next to Sorrento. Church bells are ringing, students are crowded in the lobby frantically searching for WiFi, and yours truly has found a small cafe around the corner. I'm certain the students will find me before long. There are orange groves and lemons the size of softballs hanging from every tree. Students are walking down to the Mediterranean and collecting glass from amongst the stones on the shore. It is a nice reward after carrying our luggage up several flights of stairs! Hard to believe that tomorrow's ferry to Capri will be the final highlight of this journey. The travelers, both young and old, have really bonded. Students were playing password with their phones at dinner while chaperones laughed about how much fun they are having with their roommates.
We are all grateful for the support of those who made this trip possible and will spend our final euros well...

Day Eight

Day Eight

 "Travel is only glamorous in retrospect." So said our travel guide to start the day and as we stagger in to the hotel, aching and sleepy, we are inclined to agree. There was a power outage at the catacombs site we were scheduled to visit, so we detoured to a new location, the San Sabastiano Catacombs after dropping off those not participating at Palatine Hill. The most interesting location was a Roman burial site below what is now a church with Benini's final sculpture, a bust of Jesus. (Travelers from last year's Peru trip were disappointed not to see any bones--the bodies have all been moved to a lower third level below ground for preservation and respect.) Next, we visited St. Paul's Basilica, the second largest church in Rome behind St. Peter's. Statues of Paul show him wielding a sword, a much different image than those who think of him as a proliferate prisoner. The inside of the basilica was cavernous, the alabaster pillars from Egypt breathtaking. Although we did not get to see the Pope, we did see his mosaic lit in the ceiling along with mosaics representing all 260+ pontiffs since Peter.

Our drop off point was the top of the Spanish Steps, filled with people at noon eating and crowd-watching. Students headed to Trevi Fountain to find it under construction, a disappointing amble across a man-made walkway with a view of haz-mat-clad restoration workings sufficing for a flowing fountain. On the way to the Pantheon a kind man let the students take pictures with his two pet Parakeets...for a euro! Just a lesson that "free time" in Rome doesn't mean it won't cost you anything! Inside the Pantheon (so sorry those of you who didn't keep up with Coach Neighbors and didn't get to see inside) was the tomb of Victor Emmanuel, the first king of united Italy and Queen Margarita, the namesake of Italy's most common pizza. The interior was being prepared for a liturgy and was another 'wow' in a long line of indescribable moments. It is encouraging to see students stunned by the architectural and artistic beauty of a place.

Piazza Novano was nearby, a haven for artists where many students bought a memento of Rome. More traditional shops on the Via dei Corso and dei Conditti also earned some tourist dollars from the great state of Texas. Our day would not have been complete without a student getting 'lost' in the crowd, this time distracted by conversation with an Italian boy! Just like the parable of the lost sheep, we left the 99 (literally!) and searched until we found the one lost lamb. There is a sense of relief now that we are all safely back at the hotel. Our nightly routine is groups of students crowded in the lobby connected to WiFi on their phones while those who didn't get online fast enough walk across to McDonald's to do the same. Adults are showering, putting in their earplugs, and falling asleep even before I finish typing. Because I refuse to sprint off the bus and into the lobby to fight for WiFi access, I, too, will have to wait until tomorrow sometime before this message posts. No worries. It's Rome. It's glamorous, remember?

Thursday, March 19, 2015

Ball High Flag

Day Seven Italy

Day seven

Today was one long "wow" after another. It started at the Colosseum. (Or did it start with Starbucks quality coffee being served at the continental breakfast offered by the hotel?!) Our guide was very Latin and very passionate about the accomplishments of the ancient Romans on which we stood. There were tales of gladiators and beasts and naval battles, of emperors and senators and team owners or 'patrons.' The organization of the games was as impressive as the architectural world wonder in which we walked. Our exit took us through the Forum, the political and economic heart of the Roman Empire. We paid homage at Caesar's burial site and saw a Roman temple converted to a church. The size and grandeur stunned some of the students who could only imagine the way this district must have reigned over its inhabitants 2000 years ago.
Overlooking the 'playground,' or Colosseum floor where the battles were waged, the seniors pulled out the Ball High flag and snapped a photo. That purple and gold flag has traveled with us around the world and back ten times and shown up in the yearbook every year since 2006. The entire Ball High student and staff group squeezed into one frame in front of the 'wedding cake' government monument nearby, and then our guides had to back up into the street in order to photograph the entire squad of travelers in one great final picture.
Lunch was only scheduled for one hour, but not even a street-side cafe in Italy is interested in rushing the dining experience. Once underway, we crossed an international boundary and entered the Vatican. A four-story escalator ride toward a sun-drenched paned ceiling set the stage for what would be a mind-boggling two hours. (All of the students were wearing Whisper headsets and listened to the guide as we shuffled through. We were told it was not very crowded! When they saw our confusion, because everyone could barely move without bumping into a foreigner, they explained that 6 million visitors go through the Vatican every year. 35,000 on a busy day, 5,000 on the least of days. Today they estimated 15,000.) Every small step put us into a 360-degree realm of wonder and amazement: frescoes, mosaics, sculptures, tapestries, maps, tiled floors, gold-leaf ceilings, paintings...and then the Sistine Chapel. Too much to take in when only allowed to spend ten minutes inside. The lower third is painted with frescoes imitating curtains. The second third has panels of paintings by Italian masters depicting the life of Noah and Jesus. Michaelangelo's ceiling incorporates the ancestors of those two figures because his part of the project was the last to be completed. It was more meaningful because the guide spent some time explaining key aspects of the symbolism. Michaelangelo painted the ceiling when he was 63. He did the far wall ("Last Judgement") when he was in his 80s. It was the last work of his brush before he died.

Then, without delay, we crossed into St. Peter's Basilica, the center of the Roman Catholic Church. Seeing the Pieta, sarcophagus of Pope John Paul II, and the magnificence of the interior brought some to tears. There was a statue of St. Peter where many passed, touching his feet to pay their respects. Two mosaics there, copies of Raphael's works, were masterpieces.

As we exited, we saw the changing of the Swiss Guard who patrol the Vatican along with the gendarme. Travelers were able to purchase blessed items as a token of our experience or as a way to pass the significance on to a loved one.
We transversed an ornate bridge on the Tiber River while strolling back to the busses. It was a powerful day and a lot to take in. Exhausted again at the end of a long day, our tour guide announced that tomorrow we would be sleeping in an hour later before heading to the Catacombs. Amen!

Tuesday, March 17, 2015

Italy Day Six

Day Six

We said Ciao to Florence and drove straight through to Assisi (3 hours) for a Furrs-cafeteria style lunch...students were glued to the Italian soap opera playing on a big screen TV...except for the one student who had fallen asleep with someone else's gum 'glued' to her hair. (Yes, that really happened, and it is recorded here so she can never deny it.) The modern city of Assisi sits at the base of a mountain upon which the Medieval city rests. Not one but two basilicas sit atop one another in tribute to St. Francis, founder of the Franciscan order. St. Catherine, his friend and contemporary, founded the Poor Claire order and there is a church for her as well within the walled maze of stone-laden streets. A few hearty souls clamored to the fortress at the very top, passing women selling fresh truffles harvested from the hillsides in Umbria, the region we are now in. The remainder found a pastry, did some shopping for religious relics, and enjoyed strolling narrow avenues transporting us back in time. We toured the basilicas and saw Giotto's frescoes dating back to the late 1200s.  It was a quiet  place and a needed respite. Another three hour bus ride took us into Rome. (We watched the original episodes of Mr. Bean for entertainment.) Here, traffic is bustling and students are once again adjusting to more European style accommodations. Many of them are at this moment at a McDonald's behind the hotel not to eat but to access faster WiFi!

Preparations are being made for a monumental day tomorrow. No backpacks-students must carry passports-strict dress code--we will have a local guide and tour of the Colosseum, Forum, Parthenon, and Vatican. As an old man who must now retire would say, "Arrivederci."

(Also, we will try to repost pics from yesterday...)

Monday, March 16, 2015

Italy Day Five

Day 5

Students met countless other teens at the Star Disco last night...from Spain, Australia, and of course Italy. Listening to them communicate was interesting. One young man from Florence told one of our students, "No one says 'Arrivederci'...only the old men who smoke!" We all made it back to the hotel just after midnight, but not before a little karaoke action. Lorenzo, our tour guide, noticed how quiet everyone was at breakfast...😴

A steady drizzle greeted us this morning as we loaded the busses for Pisa. Our tour there surprised the travelers with a wealth of information and beautiful architecture. Who knew Pisa was the only round bell tower (most are square) and that its baptistry is also round (versus the more traditional octogonal). Also, the church and bell tower have   Moorish influence, another rarity for a Catholic cathedral. We heard a vocal demonstration in the baptistry and then students took turns taking iconic pictures for their Facebook pages. The street vendors continue to keep a close eye on our group. Today, they nicknamed individuals, calling out to them trying to entice their business. You will have to guess who "Lady Gaga," "Coach Mandy," and "Playboy" are!

Next, our group was treated by EF with a visit to San Gimignano. Not originally on the itinerary, it quickly became one of our favorite stops. Inside the medieval walls of the city were warm cafes, unique craft shops, spice factories, and "the best gelato in the world." Needless to say, Mr. Neighbors had his fill of pistachio gelato! (Many of the students ordered gelato from two different shops...so they could compare the taste and determine which is really the best in the world.)

Not even a building rain could dampen our enthusiasm as we departed for dinner in Florence. It was time to buy leather purses, visit the hospital (don't worry--it's NOT your child!) and eat our best meal so far this week. A small group even managed to climb the 414 steps to the top of the Duomo! Tired, wet, and ready for a flat bed and a flat pillow--it has been a terrific day in Italy...

Sunday, March 15, 2015

Michaelangelo's first Piata (Even master's practice!)

Itay Day Four

How many monkeys were in the bed? We aren't certain but we do know that there were one too many bananas in the bed and it ended as badly as the children's story last night when the front desk had to help change out some sheets! Fortunately most but not all jet lag is behind us and those who were still needing to catch up on sleep had a three hour bus ride this morning to rest. Those who weren't sleeping saw us cross the Appeninnes and picked up some snacks at the Autogrille.

The rain held off until just as we finished the walking tour of the Florence city center...Ponte Vecchio and the shops overhanging the Arne, a duomo of green, pink, and white marble, and the Santa Croche cathedral were highlights. At a local leather shop students were taught how to distinguish real from fake leather and saw how molds are created to form leather-bound boxes and other shapely covers. Afterwards, maps were passed out and students set out to grab snacks and do some shopping. Street vendors were pretty aggressive today and some of the travelers succumbed to buying a scarf or a work of art...but don't tell anyone because we've heard purchasing street art is somehow illegal (!) Those who ventured to the Galleria del' Accademia saw the original David sculpted by Michaelangelo. A replica which took 20-years to construct now stands in the square so that visitors can see the context which the artist had in mind as he formed his masterpiece.

Tonight after dinner we are escorting the kids to the famed Florence discoteque...due to this late-night excursion, there will be no other blog update until tomorrow. Rock on!

Saturday, March 14, 2015

Italy Day Three

Day 3 was all about Venice. Seniors had the early breakfast at 6:30 am but were surprised by two automatic coffee dispensers, an array of pastries, cereal, cold cuts, yogurt, fresh fruit, and several unique juice blends. No one left the hotel hungry!

Our first stop was to a glass-blowing demonstration where a Murano-glass master showed the students how to create a pitcher and a horse. Because there were small flaws in both designs, the glass was immediately thrown back into recycling. Only after four inspections does a piece of finished glass go into the artwork phase for any design to be authenticated. Only because I promised the students not to reveal any secrets, I can not post any pictures at this time...but there are several relatives who have some amazing presents awaiting them when we arrive back in Texas next weekend!

A short water-taxi ride away was the island of Venice and a walking tour led by a local guide. Students wore "Whisper sets" which allow the guide to talk quietly into a microphone and all the travelers have a receiver so they can hear clearly even if they are not standing directly beside the guide. (Warning: we discovered "Whisper" is a misnomer.) Once that concluded, students had four hours to each lunch, tour the Doge's Palace, and eat lunch. Almost everyone got lost!! It is truly part of the Venice experience...The palace and prison were unforgettable: Extremely ornate, breathtaking ceilings, and prison cells more properly termed dungeons. Everyone who toured the palace also crossed the Bridge of Sighs, a prisoner's final walk before disappearing into the penitentiary below.

Purchases included art work, Carnival masks, magnets, and lots and lots of sunglasses! Students are slowly starting to loosen up and participate in some goofy video shots that will one day end up in a crazy highlight video. Shake it up, Ball High!

Friday, March 13, 2015

Flying over the Alps is very cool

Italy Day Two

Our group is not difficult to spot--there are several EF backpacks being sported--but when we walk as a crowd through a terminal, for example, it helps to have tall leaders whom everyone can clearly see. (Thank you Jacob and Anthony.) It's entertaining to see 17- and 18- year olds reduced to excited children so easily: How many of us can we squeeze into one room? How does this vending machine work? Will it take US coins? (No!) What are we doing when we get there? When is lunch? What do I do if I lost my boarding pass? (Not a hypothetical question) What is the age limit to get a tattoo in Italy? Why does it cost a euro to go to the bathroom?

Surrounding St. Mark's Square in Venice are high-priced, expensive stores serving a vast array of wealthy tourists from around the world. There is also an extensive cohort of North African salesmen offering similar goods to those walking the cobblestone streets. Outside the Gucci stores are lines of men selling purses. In the past, they sold high-powered laser pointers, key chains, hair braids, and anything else a tourist with money in their pocket might be lured to purchase. A traveler needs souvenirs, right? So what does it say about our society that the number one item being hocked by street vendors in Europe today is a selfie stick??!

The exchange rate for euros was the most favorable in twelve years according to the Wall Street Journal. Students were purchasing .96 euros for a dollar at the airport. That's a few more cups of chocolate calda before the week is through!

The tour guides find it amusing that we are labeling one bus "purple" and the other "gold." Even more hilarious is that one of our tour busses is actually purple! (Actually, students are arguing whether it is lavender or magenta...either way, it was the Gold bus for today!) That will be rectified starting tomorrow morning. Venice was chilly today and promises to be cool again tomorrow. You will see Italia hoodies and jackets in pictures going forward! The light was good for pictures and students perused the shops, but a half day to shop and explore tomorrow will be the prime time to purchase our first round of souvenirs.  For tonight's dinner, students had pasta with marinara sauce. Many of them thought that was the extent of the entire meal, not realizing that in Italy the antipasti is the appetizer. We also had turkey, vegetables, and a dessert. For three of our students, getting to dinner meant practicing orienteering. Mr. Neighbors went to the hotel to lead them to dinner but the concierge had already set them out the door with a map! Fortunately, they found it even before Mr. Neighbors made it back across the square, but they discovered some new paths on the scenic route to their destination. (It's okay--we still believe in you Camden and Martin!)

What DOESNT show up on hotel websites...

Shower, toilet, sink, all in one!

Italy Day One

Once everyone had the correct boarding passes, made it through enhanced security, and found the gate, we were ready to fly. But travelers know the trip really began the night before--unable to sleep due to excitement...or because you stayed up late packing!

Several students have never flown before and many never beyond Texas. I had to warn them that this was a dangerous way to earn their wings. Not because of the long transAtlantic crossing, but because of the in-flight entertainment, multiple meals and snacks, attentive service, warm blankets, and free pillows. It's like eating ice cream for the first time and being fed Blue Bell Homemade Vanilla...once spoiled you can hardly be fed anything else and not feel slighted in some Machiavellian way. You will spend the rest of your life forgoing any less-worthy calories...so families beware. We have yet to set foot in Italy and some of them have already been infected with a joy of travel that may never again be fully quenched without an 8-hour flight to some exotic destination.